Over the course of its long existence, Temescal has boasted many landmarks. There was the Lusk Cannery, one of the world's largest fruit and vegetable packers in the last half of the 19th century. The Lusk grounds included a blacksmith, stables and men's and women's dormitories for the hundreds of employees (today, the Department of Motor Vehicles on Claremont Avenue occupies the spot). A Little Italy thrived on Telegraph, and just up the street sat Idora Park, an amusement park of wooden roller coasters, a skating rinks and games.

The arrival of the 24 redrew the western boundary of Temescal, while Broadway continues to define the eastern limits of the neighborhood; 51st Street, more or less, provides the northern border, and 40th Street the southern (see a map). Now, after decades of recovering from the construction of the freeway, Temescal is experiencing a revival of fortune. The main business corridor of Telegraph Avenue is bustling with shops and restaurants whose owners found an affordable neighborhood in which to hang their shingles.

From the south, Oakland's Koreatown spills into this neighborhood, while the northern edge has several restaurants catering to the Eritrean diaspora that has rooted itself in the East Bay. Long-time African American residents mix it up with first-time home buyers and the overflow of employees from the nearby Children's Hospital. All of these communities come together to foment the activity the Temescal has today.

Getting there: The MacArthur BART station is eight blocks away, and the Rockridge station is 10 blocks. For specific directions on getting there by public transit, use the 511.org trip planner. Driving, take the 51st Street exit from 24 East. Turn right onto 51st Street and right on Telegraph Avenue. There's metered and unmetered parking in the area.

Boontling Gallery: Started by art-student pals Mike Simpson and Derek Weisberg, the Boontling exists to show the greatest possible quantity and range of visual work by other, mostly young artists known to the two curators in the East Bay, San Francisco and beyond. The space is set up salon-style, with a room in the back for showing art and one in the front for socializing; the owners can be found there on the weekends and welcome conversation. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 4224 Telegraph Ave. (Web site)

Korean Community Center of the East Bay: Oakland's thriving Korean community has a great friend in the Community Center. Folks in need of assistance with citizenship, housing, health care, domestic violence and many other issues can call or stop in. The focus is on seniors, youth, women and immigrants, but anyone with a problem can come in for help or a referral. 4390 Telegraph Ave., (510) 547-5662. (Web site)

Temescal Branch Library and Tool Lending Library: This branch of the Oakland Public Library has a rather intimidating Tudor Revival exterior that belies the warm interior of wood beams and natural light. Not sure how that happened, but Andrew Carnegie paid for it in the early 20th century. One wing caters to children, while the other offers fiction, nonfiction, audio books and videos. Best of all, the basement has the much-used and much-loved Tool Lending Library. Need a pole pruner for a one-time tree job? Cement finishing tools? Drills, routers or sanders? You're in luck, but remember that you only have three days to use the tools, and the late fees are steep, at least by library standards. 5205 Telegraph Avenue, (510) 597-5049. (Web site)

Temescal Creek: This buried, dammed and generally neglected creek receives a respite of sorts as it winds it way through Rockridge and into Temescal. Although the actual creek remains culverted and underground, the city pumps water into a recreated creek bed situated above the culvert ... ah, nature. At Hardy Park on the Temescal-Rockridge border, the fun begins with a dog run underneath the 24 Freeway. If your dog has sunlight issues, this is the place for him. A big play set is fenced off for the little ones, with sand and dragons and slides to keep them busy. By following the creek greenbelt as it heads southwest, you'll cross a few streets, wander right through the DMV parking lot, and down Redondo Avenue. At the corner of Redondo and Clarke Street, the creek bubbles past Redondo Park. Here sits another play area, with a tiny Old West town, a tee-pee and a pirate ship, all perfectly placed in the shade of several redwood trees. Between Redondo and Hardy Streets, one block east of Claremont Avenue. (Friends of Temescal Creek Web site)

Temescal Arts Center: This arts cooperative operates on a volunteer basis, so if you have a vision, this the place you might make it happen. Currently, there appear to be more workshops than performances, but where else can you take a class in Japanese Butoh? Or Burlesque performance? Yoga and dance classes are also offered. Check the schedule for performances and film nights. 511 48th St., (510) 923-1074. (Web site)

Studio One and the Temescal Pool: Run by Oakland's Park & Rec Department, Studio One offers affordable hands-on art classes and activities for children, teens, adults and seniors. Skills taught run from bookmaking to photography to yoga, and classes are all taught by working artists. Once home to an orphanage, the historic (1894) building is finally getting a long-fought-for renovation. The recently remodeled pool provides year-round adult lap swimming, youth swimming lessons and recreational swimming during the summer. Studio One: 365 45th St., (510) 597-5027 (Web site); Temescal Pool: 371 45th St., (510) 597-5013 (Web site).

Temescal Street Fair: With renewed interest in its residential potential and its growing business district, the Temescal could not do without its own street fair. Held in mid-June, the event highlights neighborhood artists, restaurants and merchants. This year, a main stage and a children's stage kept everyone entertained with Korean drummers, belly dancers, martial arts and a juggler. For now, the Temescal Street Fair is definitely mellower than most of its Bay Area counterparts, which makes it a great place to spend a summer afternoon. Telegraph Avenue between 51st and 48th Streets. (Fair Poster)

Acorn Kitchen and Baths: Three decades after setting up shop, Acorn is still going strong. The showroom gives home owners ready to remodel an idea of the bathtubs, fixtures, cabinet and appliances available, while upstairs the design team offers an idea of what's possible. Acorn designs the kitchens and bathrooms it builds, so they'll be holding your hand from start to finish. 4640 Telegraph Ave., (510) 547-2815. (Web site)

Article Pract: Any devoted knitter, and there seem to be more and more every day, will love this place. There are hundreds of yarns for sale, making for colorful shopping experience. Also find needles in all sizes, and made from various materials, for your knitting and crocheting projects. If you want to learn the craft, take one of the classes for beginners. You can also stop by for free 15 minute "hands-on help" interventions when your scarves go wrong. 5010 Telegraph Ave., (510) 595-PURL. (Web site)

Baby World: What REI is to hikers, Baby World is to new parents. It's one-stop shopping to outfit, amuse and transport the little ones. You've never seen so many strollers, except perhaps in Noe Valley at about 1 p.m. Every budget can find items here for a baby shower gift or to set up an entire nursery. 4400 Telegraph Ave., (510) 655-0726.

Clausen House Thrift Shop: This old-time thrift shop has an old-time purpose -- charity. Profits go to services for folks with developmental disabilities. The prices are more than reasonable, especially on the nice pieces of antique furniture that pass through here on a regular basis. You can also snag the usual thrift shop garb, such as vintage sweaters, and men's hats, along with unidentifiable knick-knacks for your mantle. 4834 Telegraph Ave., (510) 653-6812.

Global Entertainment: There's nothing better than an independent video and DVD rental store that has a big selection of movies. U.S. and foreign films, silent and cult movies, tons of flicks to entertain the kids. Situated in a hideous former bank building at Temescal's main intersection, the place is clean and you can even bring your dog (on a leash, of course). If you can't find what you're looking for, just ask. And pick up some red licorice and a box of Milk Duds on your way out. 5132 Telegraph Ave., (510) 428-0707.

It's Your Move Games and Hobbies: Play like you mean it with Yu-Gi-Oh, role-playing games, and traditional board games. The rear of the store hosts game tables, and players are welcome to meet here and go at it. Several nights a week, tournaments and casual competitions are held, with Scrabble fanatics and Dungeon and Dragon geeks battling to be the best. 4920 Telegraph Ave., (510) 547-4386. (Web site)

Porch Light Antiques: Mid-century vintage furniture and fixtures mix with candles, cards and very cool handmade picture frames. The prices seem a bit steep for the neighborhood, but them's the breaks. There is definitely something cool here to finish off your apartment, loft or house. 5026 Telegraph Ave., (510) 597-0588. (Web site)

Bakesale Betty: Bewigged in a cobalt blue flip, Betty (a former Chez Panisse baker) cooks up a storm of cookies, scones, breads and other sweets. She's from Australia and so are her recipes for sticky date pudding and lamingtons (vanilla sponge cake bars with strawberry jam, dipped in chocolate and then rolled in coconut ...). The scones are divine -- try the pear-ginger variety. If you drop in after breakfast, you can have one of the tomato, cheese and ham sandwiches made on homemade white bread. The one-of-these-things-is-not-like-the-other item is fried chicken. Knowing Betty, it's the best fried chicken around. 5098 Telegraph Ave., (510) 289-5505. (Web site)

Genova Delicatessen: A neighborhood fixture for decades, Genova has retained its Italian family vibe despite moving into a larger space. You can, naturally, order a cotto salami, mortadella, galantina or head cheese sandwich, but don't forget the three varieties of turkey, the boiled ham or the crab salad choices. Hot foods include eggplant parmesan, ravioli and lasagna, and the fried artichoke hearts are a customer favorite. If you want to take it home and cook it yourself, try the homemade gnocci, tortellini and lasagnas in the refrigerated case. Serve it with a chianti from Italy or one from Paso Robles, both of which you can buy here. With all it has to offer, including imported Italian groceries such as olive oil, olives and sardines, Genova is far more than a deli. It's a destination, one frequented by locals, Children Hospital employees and foodies from across the region. It may be right off the freeway, but it tastes like it's in Rome. 5095-A Telegraph Ave., (510) 652-7401.

Hooper's Chocolates: If Willy Wonka had an outlet store, it might look a lot like Hooper's. Right on Telegraph, among barbershops, parking lots, and mini malls, sits a confection of a two-story house that reminds some people of Tara. Ring the bell to enter, and flocked hot-pink wallpaper momentarily blinds you. When your vision returns, pyramids of milk and dark chocolate candies beckon you towards two long counters. Of course, sneaking off for a self-guided tour of the mansion is just as enticing, but then you might end up drowned in a chocolate river or blown up into a giant blueberry. 4632 Telegraph Ave., (510) 654-3373.

Doña Tomás: It would undoubtedly surprise many gringos to learn that Mexican food does not always come in "grande" portions and wrapped in foil. For a peek at Mexican cuisine, there are few places as good as Doña Tomás, which was opened by the same guy who co-owns Tacubaya on Berkeley's Fourth Street. The homemade sauces and seasonings bring the mother country home in dishes such as enchiladas moles, carnitas and sopa albondigas. The corn pudding and greens side dishes have their own well-deserved reputations. The cuisine level of cooking, of course, means cuisine prices -- this is one Mexican dinner you might want to charge. 5004 Telegraph Ave., (510) 450-0522. (Chronicle review)

Koryo Sushi: If you've ever traveled to Japan, you will recognize the set up of Koryo Sushi immediately. The covered windows and low door, combined with an interior made snug by almost too many tables and subtle lighting, look much like the small sushi, tonkatsu and udon spots on Tokyo side streets and in suburban Japanese malls. From just about every seat in the house, you can watch the friendly chefs at Koryo craft sashimi, teriyaki and tempura. All reminders of the loud, hot, rude world beyond the portals can easily be erased by ordering the five shots of sake for $10. 4390 Telegraph Ave., (510) 594-0661.

Koryo Wooden Charcoal BBQ: The first thing you notice hanging in the corner of the Koryo Village Center is a huge banner that politely reminds you not to leave your cell phone in your car (lest it be stolen). After securing your phone, walk under the banner and into one of the best places around to experience Korean barbecue. The cooking apparatus is brought to your table, along with raw food, and you get to cook your meal just how you like it (and you can only blame yourself if the meal comes out wrong). The accompanying panchan, or side dishes, are praised as among the best in the Bay Area. This is a popular, if nondescript place to go with family or friends until the wee hours (though after midnight, the restaurant usually does all the cooking). 4390 Telegraph Ave., (510) 652-6007. (Chronicle review)

Lanesplitter Pizza and Pub: You can buy a lot of pizza in the Temescal, but your best bets are either at Pizzaiolo or Lanesplitter. The former (described below) is to pizza what romance is to dating. Lanesplitter, on the other hand, is the lusty side of the equation. Here, the crust is pliable, the cheese is tender, the sauce is thick, hot and ever so spicy. Yes, it is getting hot in here! Order a couple of slices and a brew (there are even good vegan pizza options here), or be completely freaky and have a calzone. But please, no tongue! 4799 Telegraph Ave., (510) 653-5350. (Web site)

Mama's Royal Cafe: There's a reason a line forms at this favorite Oakland breakfast diner. People come from near, far and further to pack the wooden booths and crowd the tables. What they want is a serving of the blueberry or banana pancakes, french toast, omelette specials and egg dishes. This is the kind of place the great unwashed and just awoken come to slurp java and blush or brag over last night's adventures. The service is uneven, and often negligent, but then you don't come to Mama's for the service. Cash only! 4012 Broadway, (510) 547-7600.

Pizzaiolo: If you like your pizza closer to cuisine than takeout, try the thin-crust, wood-fired pies at Pizzaiolo, opened by veterans of Chez Panisse. The menu changes daily, but toppings include eggplant, mint, broccoli rabe, capers, rocket and speck. Yes, speck. Also choose from a few lovely pasta dishes, antipasti and sides of polenta (especially good for tiding diners over when the pizza oven faces a backup). The high ceiling/big window/wood furniture atmosphere is typical, but don't hold that against the pizza. Everything is made with sustainable ingredients, and desserts can be washed down with the much-beloved Blue Bottle Coffee. Note that they do not take reservations, but you can wait at the bar. 5008 Telegraph Ave., (510) 652-4888. (Web site)

Pyung Chang Soft Tofu House: Yet another great Korean restaurant, and one that definitely ranks as a destination. Near-boiling pots of soft tofu stew are brought to your table, containing some combination of dumplings, seafood, beef, pork or mushrooms. This place defines savory. There are also several barbecue items on the menu, as well as a ginseng chicken soup that arrives as a whole chicken floating in broth. The heavy wooden tables and benches bring to mind a roadside inn. 4701 Telegraph Ave., (510) 658-9040. (Chronicle review)

Red Sea: This Eritrean/Ethiopian establishment offers the lamb, beef and chicken dishes found in many such restaurants. There are also, however, recipes with shrimp as the main ingredient, which isn't seen very often on such menus. Vegetarians have plenty of items to choose from as well. The white tablecloths and wicker screens make this one of the nicer Horn of Africa restaurants in the neighborhood. 5200 Claremont Ave., (510) 655-3757. (Chronicle review)

S & S Seafood: The aroma of fried seafood picks you up and carries you into S & S Seafood. Snapper, calms, calamari, sole and catfish with or without its bones are all served hot with a crisp outer shell of batter. Each comes with a delicious side, and you can also order some of those seafood staples in the form of burgers. The decor is minimalist, with a few barstools for those who insist on eating in. 4923 Telegraph Ave., (510) 654-5504.

Sahn Maru Korean Barbecue: If you like your barbecue and your black goat stew served by waiters outfitted in traditional Korean garb, this is the place for you. Sahn Maru stands out from the dizzying number of Korean eateries lining the avenue by introducing a touch of class to the experience. The barbecue is not cooked at your table, and the selection is truly unusual (if you are not very familiar with Korean cuisine) and tasty. 4315 Telegraph Ave., (510) 653-3366.

Sai Sai: The menu of Japanese cuisine at Sai Sai goes well beyond the usual sushi to offer tempura, donburi, udon, katsu and teriyaki. The menu goes well beyond the usual sushi to offer tempura, donburi, udon, katsu and teriyaki. The appetizers are a real treat -- steamed tofu, barbecued mussels, softshell crab, octopus with cucumber salad and lots more. The atmosphere is okay if a little dark, but you're here for the food, remember? 4345 Telegraph Ave., (510) 658-7273.

Tanjia: Jonesin' for Moroccan? Since in opened in 2002, Tanjia has become the place in the East Bay to get your fix of tagines, lamb, couscous and belly dancers. There are two prix fixe menus, one with a selection of standard Moroccan dishes, and the other with specialties such as kabob and salmon. The chef and owner, Said Zahid, was born and raised in Casablanca, so he won't do you wrong. 4905 Telegraph Ave., (510) 653-8691. (Web site)

Temescal Cafe: In many ways, Temescal Cafe is the glue that holds this neighborhood together. It opens earlier and closes later than most places. There are tables indoors and out, there's wifi, there's community. As for the food, the waffle selection alone (buttermilk, cornmeal, multigrain, blueberry, strawberry) makes a stop worthwhile. The sandwiches, soups and salads take the locals through lunch and dinner, and beer and wine are served. The staff is alternately friendly and quirky, or both at once. 4920 Telegraph Ave., (510) 595-4102.

ZaZang: If you are not familiar with Korean food, then prepare yourself for an intense culinary experience. It begins outside, as all of the signage, including the name of the establishment, is displayed only in Korean. Inside, friends, couples and families clamor for enormous bowls of broth and noodles, with chicken, beef or seafood added. There appears to be a pound of noodles in each serving ... So, go hungry ... very hungry. 4390 Telegraph Avenue (510) 652-3900.

Bigum's Silver Lion: A bar that opens its doors before most offices close has a stake to more of the clock than just the nighttime hours. Be that as it may, Bigum's is one of the last holdovers from the neighborhood's less noteworthy days. There is a foosball table, which compliments the pool table across the street at Connolly's Lounge. 4901 Telegraph Ave. (No phone)

Connolly's Lounge: It's unclear how one decides where to place one's loyalties -- in Bigum's, or here at Connolly's. It must come down to whether you like billiards or soccer, because both establishments are dark caverns filled with regulars who probably visit a little to regularly. 4822 Telegraph Ave., (510) 654-1423.

Kingfish Cafe and Pub: From the outside, Kingfish looks at least as divey as Bigum's or Connolly's. But inside, well, it's still a little divey but the regulars are friendly, there's a cool shuffleboard table in the back and hey, free popcorn! 5227 Claremont Ave., (510) 655-7373.

- Updated by John Fall, Special to SF Gate, 8/05